I'm pleased to announce that Simon & Schuster has just released a new paperback edition of Imperial Dreams: Tracking the Imperial Woodpecker Through the Wild Sierra Madre, about my perilous travels in the drug lands of northern Mexico in search of the world's rarest bird. The Imperial Woodpecker is a giant—the largest woodpecker that ever lived—and the closest relative of the famed Ivory-billed Woodpecker of the American South. Many believe the Imperial Woodpecker is extinct, but I set out to see if any of them might yet exist in the remotest reaches of the high-mountain mesa pine forests of Mexico.
Showing posts with label Mexican drug wars. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mexican drug wars. Show all posts
Thursday, January 19, 2017
Friday, February 21, 2014
Monday, January 20, 2014
Wednesday, January 8, 2014
Imperial Dreams makes Top 10 Science & Health Books of 2013 list
I just heard that my latest book, Imperial Dreams, was one of the books chosen for Booklist's Top 10 Science & Health Books of 2013 list. I was honored to be on the same list as E. O. Wilson and the other authors. The reviewer said, "Gallagher sets the gold standard for nature writing in this chronicle of his search for the possibly extinct imperial woodpecker in Mexican territory held by drug traffickers."
Friday, November 1, 2013
Explorers Club talk—November 4 in New York City
I'm looking forward to returning to the Explorers Club. The club itself is a great place to explore, filled with memorabilia from countless expeditions to the far reaches of the Earth and also outer space. Noteworthy past members include Robert Peary (of North Pole fame), Roy Chapman Andrews (arguably the model for Indiana Jones), Roald Amundsen (of South Pole fame), Theodore Roosevelt, Edmund Hillary, and astronaut Neil Armstrong. Astronauts Buzz Aldrin and John Glenn are current members.
I'll be talking about my own expeditions through the mountains of northwestern Mexico in search of the giant Imperial Woodpecker—largest woodpecker that ever lived and perhaps the rarest bird on the planet. It hasn't had a documented sighting since 1956, and yet stories persist among mountain villagers that a handful of them yet live on. My goal was to find out if the rumors were true, and beyond that, to talk with people who knew this species intimately, and try to find out why its numbers plummeted so precipitously in the late 1940s and early '50s.
The Explorers Club is at 46 E. 70th Street, New York, NY. The reception begins at 6:00 p.m. and my talk at 7:00. For full details, call (212) 628-8383, send email to reservations@explorers.org, or click on this link. Hope to see you there.
I'll be talking about my own expeditions through the mountains of northwestern Mexico in search of the giant Imperial Woodpecker—largest woodpecker that ever lived and perhaps the rarest bird on the planet. It hasn't had a documented sighting since 1956, and yet stories persist among mountain villagers that a handful of them yet live on. My goal was to find out if the rumors were true, and beyond that, to talk with people who knew this species intimately, and try to find out why its numbers plummeted so precipitously in the late 1940s and early '50s.
The Explorers Club is at 46 E. 70th Street, New York, NY. The reception begins at 6:00 p.m. and my talk at 7:00. For full details, call (212) 628-8383, send email to reservations@explorers.org, or click on this link. Hope to see you there.
Sunday, May 12, 2013
How to Paint a Pair of Imperial Woodpeckers . . .
Here's a fascinating blog post by artist Julie Zickefoose, describing the process she went through in painting an illustration of an Imperial Woodpecker pair. The illustration appeared with her review of Imperial Dreams in the weekend edition of the Wall Street Journal.
Saturday, May 11, 2013
Imperial Dreams reviewed in the Wall Street Journal
The Birder’s Holy Grail
The Imperial Woodpecker—at two feet tall, the largest woodpecker that
ever lived—has not been seen in more than half a century.
By Julie Zickefoose
Even though Tim Gallagher reported seeing
an ivory-billed woodpecker, the imperial woodpecker’s northern cousin, fly across
Arkansas’s Bayou De View in 2004 (and wrote a 2006 book, “The Grail Bird,”
about his quest), you're aware from the get-go that his hunt for the imperial
woodpecker in Mexico won't be a saga of discovery. There won’t be a photo of an
oversize, pied woodpecker on the book’s cover, just an artist's rendering.
Instead, “Imperial Dreams” is more along the lines of Peter Matthiessen’s “The
Snow Leopard.” It’s yearning, put into words and wistfully unrequited.
Sheer precipices abound in northern Mexico’s
Sierra Madre, but drug dealers known as narcotraficantes have turned
this place into a foreboding nightmare landscape. It's there, in remnant
old-growth pine savanna, that Mr. Gallagher seeks his dream bird, leaving home
and family for five expeditions through one of Earth’s most dangerous mountain
ranges. This is where Geronimo surrendered to Gen. Nelson Miles in 1886; where
Pancho Villa looted William Randolph Hearst’s ranch; where the Tarahumara
Indians, those fabled light-footed, long-distance runners, clung to their
lifestyle well into the 20th century. Today it is a barely modernized place of
adobe huts and wandering burros; the explorers’ trucks jolt along two-track
roads are faster walked than driven.
Mr. Gallagher paints vivid pictures of an
impoverished populace under the thumb of the rapacious drug lords, who log
illegally to clear patches for opium and marijuana, who kill indiscriminately
and without legal consequence to maintain their duchies. In one harrowing
passage, Mr. Gallagher and his friends ride in a narcotraficante’s pickup,
having fallen into nervous collaboration with him in their quest for access to
unlogged forest. As I read, I wondered why the author was going through it all,
and wondered again and again as he rattled his teeth in old vehicles and
collapsed from dehydration and exhaustion, or dodged thieves and druglords’
spies, always chasing an ornithological phantasm.
The imperial woodpecker, like its smaller
American cousin, the ivory-billed woodpecker, is almost certainly gone. These
majestic Mexican birds were deliberately persecuted, with loggers shooting them
and even poisoning the trees upon which they fed, under the false belief that
the imperial woodpeckers damaged valuable timber. Yet the inaccessibility of
what mature pine forest remains lures Mr. Gallagher ever onward—perhaps a pair
or two still cling to life in these high cold mountains. He seeks out village
elders who remember seeing the woodpeckers, each anecdote of their encounters
throwing a little more propellant on his all-consuming fire. Finally, he must
be content not with seeing the bird for himself but simply with speaking with
those aging eyewitnesses who knew it. As his role subtly shifts from explorer
to recorder, he loosens his obsessive determination to find the bird, relegating
himself to a reporter’s role and readying himself for an eventual escape from
an underworld of fantasy and desire.
I’m glad that there are people in this
world like Tim Gallagher: people who leave their armchairs, sweat bullets at
armed roadblocks, and eat cold sardines, beans and noodles so the rest of us can
marvel at their adventures. I’m glad that Mr. Gallagher is a wonderful
storyteller and deeply knowledgeable ornithologist, who also has the nerve of a
military commando. Every time I put this book down, I picked it up again to
take in just one more chapter, lured onward by the same tantalizing bits of
evidence that kept Mr. Gallagher going. Aghast at the risks he was taking, I
was caught by the scimitar-clawed grip of the world's largest woodpecker on his—and
my—imagination.
Saturday, May 4, 2013
My next Imperial Dreams reading . . .
This Sunday, May 5, at 4:30 p.m. at Buffalo Street Books, 215 North Cayuga Street, Ithaca, New York.
Friday, May 3, 2013
Thursday, May 2, 2013
Monday, April 29, 2013
Searching for a Ghost Bird
Several people have asked me about an earlier piece Science Friday did about my search for the Imperial Woodpecker. (This was before I wrote Imperial Dreams.) In case you'd like to listen to it, here's a link: Science Friday: Searching for a Ghost Bird.
Sunday, April 28, 2013
Wednesday, April 17, 2013
A Pennsylvania Dentist in the Mountains of Mexico
I've always loved the story of William Rhein—the
indefatigable Imperial Woodpecker searcher who launched three self-funded
expeditions into the vast Sierra Madre of Mexico in the 1950s to try to
document these remarkable birds as they hovered even then at the edge of
extinction. I sometimes wonder why he did it. Rhein had an excellent income
from his dental practice in Harrisburg, Pennsylvania; a nice home; and no
children, so he and his wife could afford to indulge themselves in every way.
But instead he chose to drive south with a few buddies and spend up to two
months at a time, roughing it in the outback of Mexico, living on beans, booze,
and tortillas.
(Photo
by Frederick K. Hilton)
Bill Rhein
(at right, above) with his friends George and Walter Kohler in the Sierra Madre
in 1953, during the first of three expeditions in search of the Imperial
Woodpecker.
Of course, it was a great adventure. These guys
were World War II veterans, and perhaps they missed the thrills, danger, and
sense of camaraderie they'd experienced in combat. And bird study was a
lifelong obsession with Rhein. Although he did not have a degree in ornithology,
he was an ornithologist to the core—and also a gifted bird photographer and
cinematographer. Rhein's lucrative dental practice provided all the funds and
time he needed to do anything he wanted, and the Imperial Woodpecker was the
ideal species for an obsessive quest—a bird that had barely been studied and
never photographed alive. Perhaps it was the challenge of accomplishing
something that had never been done that spurred him on.
In the course of working on Imperial Dreams, I was fortunate enough
to interview two surviving members of Rhein’s expeditions—Frederick K. Hilton
(who went with him in 1953) and Dick Heintzelman (who went in 1956)—and they
filled me in on the details of the expeditions and shared their photographs
with me.
The first thing Rhein did to prepare for his expedition
was to visit famed Cornell professor Arthur A. Allen (founder of the Cornell
Lab of Ornithology), who had searched for Imperial Woodpeckers in 1946.
Allen—along with his wife Elsa and 20-year-old son David—had spent six weeks in
Mexico, driving the atrocious mountain roads in a station wagon and a sedan,
both laden to the gunwales with camera and sound-recording equipment. They
actually located one of the birds, a lone female, but were unable to photograph
it or make a sound recording. Allen was generous to Rhein, providing him with maps,
advice on where to go, and the names of people to contact in Mexico. He even
loaned Rhein a huge parabolic microphone and a wire recorder (an early
sound-recording device that recorded sound onto thin steel wire) in case he got
a chance to document the bird’s voice, which had also never been done.
Rhein and three of his friends loaded up his Chevy
panel truck with all of their gear and headed south in the late spring of 1953,
driving all the way from Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, to the city of Durango, Mexico,
some 2,500 miles away. Although they struck out in the first two areas they
explored, the men eventually found several Imperial Woodpeckers (including a
pair with two young) near Los Laureles, a tiny village in the high country of
Durango.
(Photo by
Frederick K. Hilton)
Walter Kohler looks at a fallen tree where seconds earlier three Imperial Woodpeckers had been foraging.
Some of the local people were suspicious of the
strange equipment they carried, such as the odd-looking metal parabola, which
was bigger around than a sledding disk, and the wire recorder. This was in the
early days of the nuclear age, and some of them suspected the Americans were
searching for uranium.
The sound-recording equipment proved to be
impractical for the job at hand. They brought along six truck batteries to
power the setup, which did not allow them the mobility they needed to follow an
Imperial Woodpecker closely and record its call—which is too bad; no recording
of the bird’s voice exists, and no one has ever had a better chance to record
it than Rhein and his friends. They
were also unable to take still photographs or film footage on this or their
follow-up expedition in 1954
On
his third and final expedition to Mexico in 1956, Rhein finally successfully
documented an Imperial Woodpecker, capturing a variety of behaviors on 85
seconds of 16mm Kodachrome motion-picture film. But unfortunately, the film
didn’t meet Rhein’s strict professional standards, and he kept it to himself
for decades. He had filmed the segment from the back of a mule as the
woodpecker hung around, flying from tree to tree in a circle, and occasionally
foraging.
Clips from
William Rhein’s 1956 footage of a female Imperial Woodpecker.
The world might very well never have learned about
Rhein’s Imperial Woodpecker film if not for the efforts of my colleague Martjan
Lammertink, who tracked down Rhein and interviewed him less than two years
before his death. Martjan had read a letter in the Cornell archives that Rhein
had written to woodpecker researcher James Tanner in the early 1960s, in which
he had briefly mentioned the Imperial Woodpecker footage he shot in Mexico. Martjan
was living in the Netherlands at the time, but the next time he came to
America, he tracked down Rhein at his home in Pennsylvania.
Rhein and his wife greeted Martjan warmly and invited
him inside. Later, they sat down in the living room and Rhein set up his old
16mm projector and screen and began running the film. Martjan had the foresight
to turn on a tape recorder as he sat with them as the projector rolled. Pat
Leonard at the Cornell Lab has put together some of Rhein’s best footage and
used the conversation between Rhein and his wife and Martjan as a voiceover. You
can view it here:
I love hearing the comments of Rhein and his wife.
Neither of them had viewed the film in decades. As for Martjan, he was stunned.
Although it only ran a total of 85 seconds, the film was far better than he could
ever have imagined. The bird was easily identifiable and engaged in a variety
of behaviors—flying, foraging, hitching up a tree. It holds a goldmine of information
about a species that has barely been studied. To this day, it is the only
photographic documentation ever made of an Imperial Woodpecker, and its
importance cannot be overstated.
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